Bicol Express is a fiery Filipino dish that perfectly embodies the bold flavors of the Bicol region, known for its love of chili peppers and coconut milk. This creamy, spicy stew features tender pork belly swimming in a rich coconut sauce, generously spiced with chilies and enhanced with the umami depth of bagoong (shrimp paste).

Despite its traditional-sounding name, Bicol Express was actually created in the 1960s at a small restaurant in Malate, Manila. The creator named it after a passenger train that ran from Manila to the Bicol region, though the dish itself was inspired by the Bicolano's famous coconut-based spicy dishes. It has since become one of the most popular dishes in Filipino cuisine, representing the perfect marriage of heat and creaminess.

The preparation begins with sautéing aromatics like garlic, ginger, and onions until fragrant. Pork belly is then added and cooked until lightly browned, followed by the addition of shrimp paste for that characteristic umami flavor. The dish gets its signature creaminess from coconut milk, which is slowly simmered with the meat and chilies until it reduces to a thick, rich sauce. The key to a great Bicol Express lies in achieving the right balance between the coconut milk's sweetness and the chilies' heat.

While the classic recipe remains popular, modern variations abound. Some cooks add green chilies for a fresher taste, while others might include coconut cream (kakang gata) at the end for extra richness. Seafood versions using shrimp or fish are also common, especially in coastal areas. Some contemporary interpretations even transform the dish into pasta sauces or pizza toppings.

In Filipino homes, Bicol Express is typically served as a main dish with steaming white rice to help temper its spiciness. Some people enjoy it with a side of fresh tomatoes or cucumber to provide a cooling contrast. The dish is particularly popular during fiestas and special occasions, where it often takes center stage among other Filipino favorites.

While undeniably delicious, Bicol Express is a rich dish that should be enjoyed in moderation. The combination of coconut milk and pork belly makes it high in saturated fat and calories. A single serving can contain upwards of 350 calories, with a significant portion coming from fat. Those with spice sensitivity should approach with caution, as the dish can be quite hot. However, the coconut milk contains beneficial medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs), and chilies are known for their metabolism-boosting properties. For a healthier version, you can use leaner cuts of pork and light coconut milk, though this may affect the dish's traditional rich texture.